Last June I spent a weekend in Kalalau with my friend Chris. We kayaked down the coast and stayed the first night on New Beach. It was the end of a goat hunt in the valley, so there was no one but us and the park rangers. Chris and I were one of the few to brave getting caught by the rangers to be there illegally. But the risk was worth it, because we were basically alone in one of the most beautiful places on this planet.